I have helped several foreign climbers to get to the summit of different 8000ers. I know they did it with their best intentions and knowledge.. On 5 February 2021 as John Snorri, Muhamad Ali Sadpara, Sajid Sadpara and Juan Pablo Mohr were challenging K2, a plume of cloud hung over the summit. or just bad luck? Keeping fingers crossed for the impossible. 1987/88 Attempt: 13 Poles, seven Canadians, and four Britons / made Camp 3. The condition up in the mountain and even at the basecamp is getting poor. The Baltoro glacier is also bleu ice on the pictures, and the slope to C1 is so steep… I wonder what happened, broke the rope? All we know right now is that he has hurt his leg, nothing more. He has held Polish citizenship since February 2015. Yesterday helicopters were flying at maximum 7000 m height. Great that this Sherpa team succeeded. Chronicle, pictures, interviews Maybe that will remain a question forever. Actually, Weather on K2 is very bad from previous 2-3 days, so it’s nearly impossible to land on K2 peak. Cheers, Abbas, Hope they are safe and make it back safely…. They did reach the bottleneck according to Sajid as that’s where he turned back but events after that are known to only the 3 climbers. The few photos I’ve seen of K2 makes it look like a hurricane on top of the mountain with all the snow blowing and obscuring the peak. That is the energy that I want to come and take to these places so that I can get home transmitting this same energy to my family, my friends and everyone. 7. Besides alpinists, all the climbers take help from Sherpa to fulfill their dreams of 8000m peaks. They established a camp a bit lower at 7,350-meters. When you are above 6,000 or 7,000 meters, all emotions are stronger than in normal life and that is one of the things that motivates you to return to these mountains. I just hope there hasn’t been a freak accident. Weather forecast, which only confirms the one short weather window around 11/03/2018, 3. Another flight will try on Sunday, but the winds will be similar to Saturday. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. I know we need to hope for miracles. They are strong both physically and mentally. On his way up, the high altitude and UV radiation took a toll on his eyes, which, post-radial keratotomy surgery, developed lacerations and lost vision. The year was 1983 (and I think you noted that correctly somewhere else but cannot find that reference now). Difficult conditions hit the teams from the start, with injuries from rockfall and illness. Sources in Pakistan told ExplorersWeb that Skatov fell to his death and came to rest in an inaccessible place near Camp 2. More than 4,000 people have reached the summit of Everest, whereas only 367 people had climbed K2 as of June 2018, National Geographic reported. And March 2. Also you wont be able to control a drone 3000m above you in such weather – that is, if a drone that can do that even exists on the commercial market (sure the powerful militaries of the world would have it) .. Eariler even I was assuming the same but after some research i found out Ecureuil AS350 and Lama 315sa are the best high altitude machines available and same have been used in rescue operation. Highly unlikely that all of their communication devices gave up at once. My mom, Ida Arnette, died from this disease in 2009 as have four of my aunts. I WISH YOU AND PRAY FOR A SAFE DESCENT !!! But climbing one in the winter is a whole different animal and up until now, no one had successfully climbed the formidable K2 in the winter. Please join me to end Alzheimer's by joining the fight! The 10 summiters reached back C4 safely (twitter from Dawa Sherpa SST). It’s a big risk, and ultimately wouldn’t be suitable for much besides recon. My father Trevor Newland went to base camp on that trip and I would love to see any pictures, information, memories or accounts of that time. Also, I saw a YouTube video of a helicopter that “landed” on top of everest which was a few years old. I believe this is the point where we say good bye to those legends. We regret to inform that we have not received any new news from John, Ali, and Pablo after the night. One question. What’s next they invents ¿, WOW… Exciting times indeed… Well Done to them. Great team accomplishment and congratulations for the Sherpa community! Urubko believed that winter ends at the end of February, while leader Wielicki felt it ends with the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 12:15 pm EDT. Scott and Bonington waited five days at base camp while Anthoine ran ahead to organize porters to carry Scott out. On the other hand the military has a lot of sophisticated planes that should be able to handle the altitude and terrain. A second group of climbers, which included Muhammad Ali Sadpara, his son Sajid Ali Sadpara from Pakistan, John Snorri from Iceland and Jp Mohr Prieto from Chile, attempted to scale the K2 summit. The challenge remains for the mountain to be climbed without oxygen. As events unfolded, this plume became the dreaded K2 weather. As the team descended in darkness to Camp 3 (23,760 ft), word of Spanish climber Sergi Mingote’s death lower on the mountain tempered […] This effort was a very short last winter by Mingma G Sherpa and Jon Snorri. They followed the fixed rope already installed by John Snorri Sigurjonsson with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his son Sajid Ali to Camp 1, then on to Camp 2 with lines set by Mingma G’s team. On their descent of the north ridge, Simpson slipped off an ice cliff and shattered his right leg. The historic winter summit of K2 is underway on Saturday, January 16, 2021, by an all Nepali team. Nirmal Purja Magar summited without supplemental oxygen accompanied by his nine teammates. In winter of 1980 Zawada led the first winter expedition, and the first winter ascent on Sagarmatha (aka Mt Everest). No Word From Winter K2 As Sleepless Summit Push Enters Third Day. Purist will cry foul, most will applaud the accomplishment. By January 20, they had reached 6750m. A 30-minute documentary of Alan’s 2014 K2 Summit. Winter K2 expeditions. 47 talking about this. During last search today, I think they even reach to 7800mtrs, But not enough for this rescue. Thanks for all your support, we keep faith. They experienced the usual poor weather and established Camp 1 on January 30 but ended their expedition on February 5, 2020. 7200m, after which he would return to the base to attempt the summit on 11.03. in the upper path. I’ve been following you through the night, what a great day for mountaineering and Nepal! In Finland and Sweden, they use temperatures to define seasons. At that point, the expedition terminated. His 8000er achievements include: Born in 1973 and raised in the countryside of Ölfus, Iceland, John Snorri excelled at sports at an early age, and later found his physical and mental passion in mountain climbing. I first read of his accident in your post. Now, 38 years later, K2 has been summited in the winter. i have them in my thoughts. They made it into camp the next morning at 9 a.m. 5. I will not give any dates, but I assure you that I will return to K2. Warning Portal Ventusky large rainfall on wys.7600m, 6. Just the brief mention of Pemba Sherpa, climbing down with Noel Hanna and instead remaining at Camp 1 to help Sajid, brought tears to my eyes. Which Everest route would you prefer to climb? Additionally the temperature will kill the batteries. This was the last repot of their status, now close to two days ago. Colin and Jon were there to congratulate and celebrate their successful summit and safe return down the mountain. It was the last of the world’s 14 … John Snorri Sigurjonsson – Iceland is a professional mountaineer. While Everest has a high death toll at 305 recorded deaths, it has also seen over 10,000 successful summits. He convinced them he was okay to descend by himself and made it to rejoin Reichardt at the team’s high camp. Growing up in Iceland, John Snorri has spent his life exploring the rugged wilderness that surrounds him. who lead the last Polish K2 attempt in 2003. Yates tied their twin 150-foot ropes together and began lowering Simpson down the ridge 300 feet at a time as a storm rolled in. In my case, I believe that the mountain is the place where I belong and where I feel happiest. THEY WROTE HISTORY UNITED!! How do you know the timing? I forgot to add an appreciation for the brave pilots and climbers volunteering to search for them and help them home. Maybe that malfunctioning regulator will turn out to be a positive happenstance, at least we know the son should make it home to his mother. Thanks Alan, spent the last 4 hours refreshing and checking everyone’s social media accounts who is out there for news. I would think you could do flybys and take high resolution photos which could be quickly sent via satellite to computers or people to analyze. What an incredible achievement. These 3 are accomplished climbers so I’m hoping they’ve switched to plan B or something that we don’t know of.. however conditions up there in winter are nothing short of deadly.. I’m with such a heavy heart and want to see them back.. I’m thinking that at 10am at bottleneck they were already 3 hours behind schedule (and considering the Nepalese team summitted at almost 5pm), Ali, JP and John would have summitted at 8pm .. that is just way beyond the time to be up there .. my other thought is if they had a plan to summit another morning (Saturday) which again is not possible as they were not camping overnight and they knew winds would pickup by then. Art Davidson’s account of the climb and descent, Minus 148 Degrees, became a mountaineering classic. Doug Scott, Mo Anthoine, Chris Bonington, and Clive Rowland, Baintha Brakk/The Ogre, 1977 Not one specific bivouac, but a series: Scott, Anthoine, Bonington, and Rowland spent a number of nights descending from the Ogre’s 23,900-foot summit, after Scott broke both legs when he slipped rappelling and pendulumed into a gully. Of course, a lot depends on snow and wind conditions. They were trying a no Os summit. They met American climbers Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad, who had climbed the South Col route, around 28,000 feet. On Wednesday, they followed ropes established by Mingma G and Nims over the Black Pyramid and set up Camp 3. This shows the power of human spirit. The four men then went up to the west summit with Scott slowly jumaring ropes. K2′s “savage” peak beckons the daring, but rare is the climber who answers the call in winter. At 8,611 meters K2 is the second highest mountain in the world, near Everest's 8,848.86 meters. The next morning, Anthoine and Rowland, who had climbed a different route, joined them and helped Scott into a snow cave they’d dug below the summit. Maybe good to mention that all summiteers were heavily dependent on Oxygen. Thanks again Alan for all your spot on information this week, you’ve noticed already monday? The secretary of Pakistan's Alpine Club, Karrar Haideri, said 10 Nepali Sherpas reached the summit around 5 pm. Since all three of them missing with no contact to radio link etc, I am assuming may be they have been caught by some accident… may be under giant Serac(since winds were picking up) and lost right away. He has eight summits of 8000ers, including four on Nanga Parbat, the first winter summit of Nanga with Simone Moro and Alex Txikon in 2016. My opinion is that they worked as a unified team to get the camps and fixed line in early, they got lucky with the weather, especially in December and early January and on the summit push, they were able to stay healthy and avoid the objective dangers of avalanche and rockfall, they had a strong support team on supplemental oxygen breaking trail and fixing the lines and finally lead by Mingma G and Nimsdai, they were determined to show the world’s that Nepali climbers were amongst the best. Feb 04 2021 . Given they would not be limited by altitude it seems like they would be much more likely to identify where someone might be. No need to remind where and when. K2 Karakorum Winter 8000ers Winter Himalaya 10/01/2021 Purja climbs to Camp 2 in fine weather. 3 Military powers in the area certainly would have those sort of planes: Nato in Afghanistan, India and China. Hats of for these Nepalese machines. © www.alanarnette.com. now from Ali SadPara and its team trying to this. Just hoping they show up somewhere in any state. Fantastic leadership. But for a winter permit, the least popular time, it drops to $2,750. No one was hurt, but Bonington sat out another week in the mountains before he could get down. Another medical evacuation from K2 Base Camp, this makes three this season. I feel his descending after 20 hours of waiting is by plan which his father would have told him Incas they don’t show up.. selflessness there as well.. I am checking here every few hours for the update wishing for a miracle with all 3 climbers showing up in one of the lower camps. has six seasons, making season definitions even more complicated!! Australia and New Zealand use the meteorological definition, so spring begins on September 1 each year. The Bottleneck is a narrow couloir, which is overhung by seracs from the ice field east of the summit. Also great sportsmanship in that all ten climbers reached the summit at the same time demonstrated the best of human qualities. Joe Simpson, Siula Grande, 1985 In 1985, Joe Simpson and Simon Yates boldly climbed the first ascent of the West Face of 20,813-foot Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes, alpine-style. This paradigm uses how the sun hits the earth and the shortest and longest days each year, in other words, the equinoxes, and solstices.